Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
